Well enough of my rambling…on to the good part…the
testing. I first turned on the unit and plugged in my pattern
generator. I tend to not throw a picture until after I tweak
it, as I like to make sure my first impression is the best
it can be. I fired it up, and brought up the menu. I went
to do the basic contrast, brightness, etc….but everything
was blanked. Hmmm…. checked my connections and was getting
a picture no problem. I checked my resolution, that didn’t
do anything. Then I remembered that the Marantz comes from
the factory on a “Default” mode. Everything is
grayed out. I changed that to “User 1”, and voila.
I only mention this for you DIY people so you don’t
get alarmed when this happens to you. I should also mention
there are a few preset modes, but in addition there are 10
user definable modes for those who want lots of setting capabilities.
I continued with my adjustments and took some measurements.
I have listed the results below, but as always, take them
at face value. The calibration of this unit I found quite
easy, although it wasn’t all that accurate out of the
box (which was suprising considering the level of this unit).
I definitely had to do a good amount of adjustment to get
it to where it needed to be.
Onto the picture… I have always thought of Marantz’s
projectors as being among the best, and this does not disappoint.
You have just about everything on this unit that you’d
want from a good picture standpoint. First off, contrast.
The on/off contrast rivals among some of the highest units
I have seen (without DI). In addition, the ANSI contrast was
quite good so you have the best of both worlds. Some projectors
have decent contrast levels, but they accomplish it with higher
whites and raised blacks. Not the case with the Marantz. The
black levels were extremely deep. This allows the projector
to do really rich colors, in addition to performing well with
darker movies. No gray blacks here. Now, often the projectors
(especially DLPs) with the deep black levels tend to bury
the detail in the darker scenes. It is often difficult to
accomplish the darkest darks, while still maintaining detail.
The Marantz did very well with this, especially considering
how dark the blacks were. There are several gamma adjustments
ranging a variety of levels. Because of this, I was able to
adjust the gamma such that even with the darkest scenes I
was able to accomplish good shadow detail. As an aside I found
the “Theater” mode was best overall for movies.
The brightness on this unit was decent…I would say about
average for a single chip DLP. I measured out about 15.5 fcd
at the highest level (after calibration). On the screen size
I was using, that is about 496 lumens. This was at the highest
possible lamp power while sacrificing some contrast. You can
see more specifics about this below in the measured specifications.
Though this is plenty of brightness for an average sized screen,
it would not be adequate for a large (say over 120”)
screen, nor a room with ambient light in it. I use a Vutec
Silverstar (I like a really vibrant image), and with this
combo, it had plenty of brightness, even with some bias lighting
in the room.
On to the colors… I found the color accuracy on this
unit very good. Though I don’t have the equipment to
do measurements, by eye, it looked spot on. Note: You have
seen in my reviews I usually use the same material. This is
done for more accurate comparisons. In addition, I know the
material very well so I can compare with various units from
memory. Moving on. It had plenty of saturation, but didn’t
tend to look “fake” like I have seen on some projectors.
What I mean by that is they looked rich, but not overly so
such that you could tell it was digital. In fact the colors
looked similar to what CRTs are capable of. This is a direct
result of 2 things. First, the processing will help a lot
with saturation. Second, the color wheel helped. As I mentioned
earlier, the unit has new filters which allow for deeper,
richer colors (also helps with dithering).
The menu system of the Marantz is fairly well laid out. There
are lots of adjustments in the user menu (you can do everything
there). The unit has noise reduction, chroma delay, RGB adjustments,
etc… There is plenty to get it looking how you want.
The only thing I found a bit difficult to work with was the
menu selection. Instead of a “enter” and “exit”
button, the unit uses the cursor controls to select, adjust
and return. It was a bit strange to get used to, but I found
it wasn’t too bad after playing with it. In addition
to all the menu adjustments, the remote has some quick access
controls on it. These allow you to do the standard stuff (aspect
ratio, menu, power, etc…), but some other things like
“black level expansion”, etc…
Ultraviolet
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